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We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between.

We offer climbing training programs , climbing training classes , nutrition classes , regular blog posts , interviews on The TrainingBeta Podcast , personal coaching for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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As a forensic scientist for a major city police department, Ella is well-educated and has a quick and curious mind. When she accompanies Lucifer to Las Vegas, it turns out that she is such a good blackjack card-counter that she is banned from at least one casino.

She is also an expert in pistol marksmanship. Ella also talks about faith a lot. Religion is a large part of her life, as evidenced by her favor from Lucifer, which was to go to church with her.

To Lucifer's surprise, she thinks the devil gets a bad rap. She does not believe that rebelling against his father and offering Eve an apple makes him evil.

However, she thinks him running Hell "with the torture and eternal damnation" is "not so great". Though she does show more aggressiveness, such as using a shotgun to try and scare off Lucifer at one point and her tone is less kind.

However, these effects depend on personal characteristics, and we will explain this now. My research also gives some pointers regarding the length of each program:.

No matter what method we are dealing with, its marginal effect decreases with time, up to the point where we plateau.

This is specially true of MaxHangs with times shorter than 10 seconds. At certain point, though, we have to realize that maintaining certain level can be considered a success ; the body does not have an unlimited ability to adapt.

The information we have provided will allow you to:. Review all the info if necessary. Smaller, occasional differences can in principle be due to normal fatigue and require just adjusting the load.

Revise your planning and do lighter workouts while you figure it out. Rest for weeks after every 4-week MaxHangs cycle or 8 weeks of IntHangs.

If your evolution feels a bit slow remember that the higher your starting level is the slower and smaller the gains will be, and vice versa.

Thank you very much for your motivation, I hope you com back for more as I follow with this series, which will feature IntHangs and SubHangs programs as well as nonlinear periodization examples where MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs will be combined.

These guides are now also available separately from the boards. You can order them now at oriol surfacesforclimbing. Older Posts Home. Subscribe to: Posts Atom.

Search this blog. Like my blog? Help keep it going! Order your Fingerboard training guide in format poster Click on the image above.

Power company Podcast click on the photo. Interested in my Educational Workshops, Clinics or Lectures? Feel free to send me an email to: evalopezcoach gmail.

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